Beginner’s Guide to Attending Essen Spiel

Written by Chris Marling

If you’re into tabletop gaming, the chances are you’ve of Essen Spiel. It tends to be referred to as such, or sometimes just Essen, sometimes just Spiel, but technically it’s full name is SPIEL Essen. Held every year during the October schools’ half-term in Germany (so the week varies), it is the largest annual board game convention in the world. While the big US cons are now challenging its crown, you’ll still find more games released (usually close to 1,000!) and on sale at Essen than at any other event. This year, it’s taking place from the 3rd to the 6th of October, so we’ve got some tips if you’re thinking about going. 

Should you go to Essen?

Just because it’s awe-inspiringly big and awesome in many ways, it doesn’t mean Essen Spiel is for you. While UK Games Expo is starting to look a little like a mini version, Essen Spiel is unique compared to it, or any other UK con you’ve visited. 

The most fundamental difference is you won’t find halls to play games in at Spiel. Despite being held in Messe Essen, a vast conference centre even the Spiel fails to fill, open play is not catered for. Yes, you can play games at the con; but only on the limited tables set up by publishers to help teach and sell their games. You play the game that’s set up on the table, not one you brought along. 

Essen Spiel is essentially a trade fair with added retail. Every major board game publisher (and most of the small ones) comes to Essen and uses its time to make deals, from taking designer pitches to arranging global distribution deals. It just so happens that while they’re doing that behind the scenes, their staff are also selling you their latest products.  

What this creates is a packed, hectic, mess of a convention where you’ll find everything from Asmodee to some strange guys dressed as pirates selling strong fantasy-themed beer. You’ll get second hand bargains alongside the latest minis and terrifyingly overpriced dice, tiny publishers alongside industry giants, and everything from T-shirts to mugs and plates. If you don’t like crowds, browsing, and shopping, you may be better off elsewhere.

Getting to Spiel Essen

The closest airport to Essen is Dusseldorf, and you’ll find regular flights from most UK international airports. Dortmund is another option, and while it is roughly the same distance from Essen (about an hour by public transport), it has fewer arrivals. 

I prefer the train, which is a more complex endeavour. Head to Brussels on the Eurostar, and then it is usually two trains (via Cologne) into central Essen. It is possible to do the journey in six hours from London which, when you include transfers, isn’t bad. Also, you can take as much luggage as you like.  

Another option is driving, especially if you intend to pick up a lot of large games or are going in a group. Essen is a five-hour drive from Calais, France, and the roads tend to be a less liable for hold-ups compared with the UK.

Where to stay (and play) at Essen

While Essen has a huge conference centre, and the weight of hotels you’d expect to service one, it doesn’t stop there from being incredibly high prices and limited space during Essen Spiel. Try to book early, and look out for new hotels or AirB&Bs that might not have caught on to how much money they can make from us poor gamers! 

While Essen Spiel itself doesn’t cater to gamers who want to play their purchases, thankfully the local hotels are well used to the show. Most open their dining areas to gamers once breakfast is over each day, and they stay that way late into the night. Most attendees shop until they drop, and then head back to their hotel or AirB&B to play their new games. I’ve made lifelong friends at stupid-o-clock in the morning in Essen hotel bars.

If you’re driving, or are happy to begin and end your day with a train journey, there are several local towns where you can find cheaper hotels. Prices are rising as the growing number of attendees spreads out, but you can still find bargains in nearby Mulheim, Bochum, and Gelsenkirchen - all less than 30 minutes away.  

The Messe Essen Congress Center has loads of parking, although it can be a bit of a trek to the show if you’re unlucky. There are two Metro stops right outside the Messes entrances, and I’ve found the service to be, in the main, reliable. For those who like a walk, it takes just over 30 minutes to walk from Essen Hbf (the main train station) to the halls.   

Inside Messe Essen during Spiel

Once you’ve decided to go to Essen and have your travel and accommodation booked, your troubles are largely over. Tickets are around 20 euros per day (Thursday to Sunday), or 60 euros for a weekend pass, with discounts for children. You can buy online in advance (advised), or just show up on the day. Just be aware that there are huge queues at opening time, but these soon dissipate. 

One way to beat the queues is to work at the show. Many publishers take on temporary staff just for the Spiel to help demo their games. This should get you an Exhibitor Pass, which allows you to get in before the doors open (and stay after closing). You’ll either be paid properly or in games/discounts, depending on the vendor, but it’s a great way to reduce your costs if you’re happy to do the graft. Keep an eye on the Board Game Geek forums for opportunities, or contact publishers directly.   

The reason for the queues tends to be stock-related. Whether by design, bad luck, or incompetence, many publishers only bring a few hundred copies of their new hotness to the show. This leads to a mad rush to certain stands each morning, so if you come expecting to get every game on your wishlist you may be disappointed. While the halls get incredibly busy, especially on Saturday, there is plenty of reasonably priced food and drink available and the queues for it are manageable. Look for the doors on the walkways between the halls, where you’ll find some of the best food trucks outside in the parking areas.

When to Essen

I tend to avoid the crush on Saturday and explore instead. While the city of Essen has generally improved over the last couple of decades, there’s not much to do. You’ll find plenty of shops, restaurants, and bars, but it’s not the most historic or pretty city in Germany. On the plus side, it does feel safe and the public transport is good. 

You’ll find Rüttenscheider Strasse about a 10-minute walk from the halls. It is packed with eateries, including the popular Fritzpatricks; an Irish bar with decent pub food that hosts English-speaker meetups pretty much all week.  

Grugapark is right outside the Messe, costs a few euros to get into, and is a beautiful place to spend a nice day away from the bedlam. Its gardens are packed with wildlife, from birds of prey to deer and miniature petting goats, alongside sculptures, water features, and more across 70 hectares. 

If you’re happy to travel a little for some history, the Zollverein Coal Mine Industrial Complex is a 20-minute drive from the city. This World Heritage site used to be home to 8,000 miners but is now celebrated for its Bauhaus-style design. I also recommend the awesome Wuppertal Suspension Monorail, which is closer to 40 minutes away by car.